Garmin Edge 1000

A guide to getting turn-by-turn (TBT) navigation working on the Edge 1000

Intro

I frequently cycle up to and over 100 miles, often in places I’ve never been before, pre-planning my route to visit particular places, follow the nicest roads/avoid the nasty roads and pass the features I want (cake stops!) when I want. Rather than keep stopping and looking at a map/route-card, I’ve used a Garmin Edge to follow my desired route for many years with great success.

Though the Edge 1000 is pretty good out-of-the-box, people do struggle with the navigation side of things, so this page details how I have it set up and how I use it for navigating.

This guide is broken down into just 5 steps:

  1. Set up your Edge 1000 – some of the default settings are a bit odd so we’ll change them (only needs doing once)
  2. Plan your route
  3. Download your route
  4. Copy your route onto the Edge 1000
  5. Go ride!

After the guide there’s some sections covering other relevant information.

Maps

A quick word on maps as they are a fundamental part of turn-by-turn navigation, because that’s where the Edge gets the turn-by-turn information from, not from the route file.

Really important that you understand the following: If you don’t have a map covering the area you’re riding in, you won’t get turn-by-turn information. If the map omits/includes features you do/don’t expect, then you won’t get the results you expect.

The Edge 1000 comes with a pre-loaded map which is based on the Open Street Map (OSM) project. You will get updates to this map via Garmin Express.

So far I’ve had no issue with the included maps though it’s possible to use the old style Garmin City Navigator and OS maps on SD card if you prefer.

You can also use a different “cut” of the OSM maps that you download yourself (see here for a guide on how to get them) should you need an area not covered by the included map, you have issues with it or would rather a map that didn’t include cyclepaths (in which case select Generic Routable as the map type).

Initial setup

Some of the default settings on the Edge 1000 are a bit odd/undesirable/wrong so I always make a few changes (this only ever needs doing once).

Select Tools from the main menu, Activity Profiles, a particular activity, Navigation, Map and set the options like so:

Edge 1000 Map

When done, press the back arrow, select Routing and set the options like so:

Edge 1000 Routing

Note: In an update to the original Edge 1000 firmware, Garmin decided you can’t have “off course” warnings on if you’ve got turn-by-turn navigation on. The best workaround I can think of is to set Recalculation to “Prompt”. That way you’ll at least get a notification if you accidentally go off course (on getting the notification I select “no” and find my own way back to the course).

When you get to Avoidance Setup, set the options like so (or as applicable to your bike type):

Edge 1000 Avoidance

Keep pressing (or press and hold) the back arrow to get out of the menu system.

Obviously this needs repeating for each profile you’ll be using turn-by-turn navigation with.

Select Courses from the main menu, then press the three-line icon in the bottom right (note you will need at least one course loaded before this button is enabled) and ensure Turn Guidance is enabled.

Edge 1000 Courses Edge 1000 Course Options

Plan your route

There are numerous websites out there that allow you to pre-plan a cycle route but for me, RideWithGPS is by far the best so that’s what I’ll assume you’ll be using.

Some tips for route planning (originally written by Uncycle on the Garmin forums):

  • To avoid the confusing the Edge 1000, always finish a circular route 10-15 metres away from the start
  • When plotting a route always click in road segments NOT at junctions (to avoid little side stubs when you click a bit inaccurately)
  • Allow the website’s routing algorithm time after each click to complete its routing to that point (avoids odd little loopbacks)
  • Go round the course at max zoom to check that all is correct

Another little trick that I do is to grab “peg man” and hover him over the route, if my route lights up blue, it means the Google StreetView car went down that part of the road and so there shouldn’t be a problem going down it myself. If part of my route doesn’t light up blue then I need to ask why did the StreetView car not go down there? Most likely it’s an unpaved or private road that Google thinks is navigable when in fact it’s not practical and/or legal to do so.

On RideWithGPS you have a choice of maps, selectable from the drop-down in the top right of the menu. If you use one of the OSM or RWGPS ones you will be using the same mapping data as used on the Edge 1000 (subject to version differences) and should therefore get excellent consistency with the turn-by-turn navigation/routing (thus avoiding the issue 1 outlined below).

Download your route

Once you’ve planned your route on RideWithGPS, use the Export feature to save the route as a GPX Track.

Copy your route onto the Edge 1000

Plug the Edge 1000 into your computer, wait for it to be recognised and then copy the GPX file you exported into the Garmin\NewFiles folder on the Edge 1000. I use the Garmin\NewFiles folder on the SD Card as it means that should the Edge 1000 ever do a “reset” during a ride then at least my route is still safe (I started doing this with one of the very early Garmin Edge series that did occasionally reset; I’ve never experienced it on a recent model but old habits die hard). 

Go ride!

Once you’ve done the above, actually navigating a route is really simple, just select Courses  from the menu screen, select the desired course & hit the big green Ride button. This will cause the Edge 1000 to:

  1. Overlay the route on the map page (in purple, you can’t change that)
  2. Give you turn-by-turn instructions (bleep & on screen prompt)
  3. Give a bleep and an instruction for every entry in the RideWithGPS cue sheet (if you used the TCX option)
  4. Show a “Recalculate?” message if you stray off the route

Alternative ways of navigating

The above is how I chose to use the Edge 1000 for navigating, but there are alternatives:

Alternative method #1: Don’t enable turn-by-turn (as described above) and have “off course” warnings on. When you hit the big green Ride button in the course, you will get the purple line to follow and get a bleep/warning if you stray off it, but it’s up to you to be aware of the turns (typically by leaving the Edge on the map page).

Alternative method #2: On the course details screen select Settings, Map Display and set Always Display to On. This will always show the route on the map screen (in the colour you chose) and you just need to follow the line. You don’t ever hit the Ride button and you don’t get turn or “off course” warnings.

Quirks/Issues

There are of course some quirks/issues/bugs:

  1. If the maps the Edge 1000 is using don’t contain a path that you used when planning your route, it will probably change your route during the “Calculating” phase. This is because turn-by-turn directions are calculated from the on-board maps i.e. the Edge 1000 comes up with a route that matches your GPX as closely as possible using tracks/roads it knows about. So if the Edge map doesn’t have a track that your GPX file goes down, then it will reroute you around it. I’m not sure I like that, but Garmin had to make a choice on how to deal with that situation and they chose that method (I’d rather they stuck to the original route but didn’t have TBT). The use of the more comprehensive OSM instead of their own maps has all but eliminated the issue for me though.
  2. Sometimes you don’t get a turn prompt when you expect one. This is because the map the Edge 1000 is using doesn’t know about or understand the junction and isn’t a fault with Garmin. Typically this happens when the map thinks a junction has a different layout (different road priorities) to what is marked on the road.
  3. When you hit the Ride button, the Edge 1000 will say “Calculating” from 0 to 100% whilst it works out the turn-by-turn notifications for your route. The speed at which it goes through this process is not consistent (e.g. it may take as longer to get from 30% to 40% than it did to get from 20% to 30%). It may stick on 100% for a short while at the end, especially on longer routes.

Don’t forget that the beauty of Garmin using OSM maps is if you suffer from problem 1 or 2 above, you can do something about it by going to OpenStreetMap and making the changes.

Ride WithGPS Premium Users

It’s worth noting that RideWithGPS Premium users have two extra features directly relevant to Garmin Edge users:

  • Garmin Write – this sends a route directly to your Garmin Edge 1000 meaning the Putting a route onto the Edge 1000 section is completely redundant and the whole process is easier/quicker.
  • If you use the TCX format you can tick the “Notify before turn?” option to get an extra bleep just prior to junctions.

There are lots of other benefits to being a premium user as well as the fact you’re supporting a great website run by two great guys so it’s worth considering.

Any Questions?

If you’ve any questions or comments re navigation using the Garmin Edge 1000 then leave a comment below. Please don’t ask generic questions about the Edge 1000 or questions not related to the above as unfortunately I’ve not got time to answer those, use the Garmin Forums instead.

 

23 Responses to Garmin Edge 1000

  1. Many thanks for this info!

    Can you explain your choices for maps and navigation settings? I am not sure what Guide Text does or why you would want auto-zoom off for example?

    • forgot says:

      No problem for the info/page Ian, just hoping it’s of use to others (my equivalent page for the Edge 800 has been really popular).

      Guide Text sets when the turn-by-turn navigation prompts are shown, and that’s all the manual says! I’ve stuck with “When Navigating” because that’s what I had on the Edge 800. Not sure what the other options do on the Edge 1000, need to experiment to see if anything else might be better.

      Auto Zoom is an easy one to answer. I often just glance at the map and if the zoom is consistent then I can do this with a sense of scale. If Auto Zoom is on, I’d need to look at the scale too and that’s not that clear. I’m doing a fairly consistent speed so I know what scale I like. Just personal preference really.

      Hope that helps.

  2. pjg says:

    Your comment on RWGPS’ “Garmin Write” feature is incorrect. The file written is a “fit” file which is identical to the “TCX” format. This is why the “Garmin Write” feature allows you to change how far in advance you want notifications for the change in direction.

    Also, for the “Avoidance” options, it is a well-known fact that bike roads tend to be tagged as highways internally and if you tell the 800/810/1000 to avoid highways, it may not take you onto a cycling path. On my 1000, I disabled all avoidance features.

    In Map / Orientation feature, I recommend most people use “Automotive”. This provides the rider a 3D perspective just like in the car and is very easy to read when cycling.

    Last, not sure why you have Auto Zoom off. It works quite well. You don’t need to constantly fiddle with the zoom factor as you enter towns or change of direction…

    • forgot says:

      Thanks for the info.

      I’ve updated my RWGPS section to remove the GPX Track reference.

      I’m not sure on what basis you can say it’s a “well known fact” that contributors to Open Street Maps mark a cycle path as a “Major Highway”. I very much doubt they do that. In the UK at least, Major Highways are dual carriageways and motorways and I don’t want ride my bike on either. That said the avoidance options are of course totally personal and if you’ve got re-calculation switched off the Edge 1000 shouldn’t be taking any of these settings into account anyway.

      Your other two points are also personal and people can of course experiment and chose the options that work best for them. Personally I didn’t like the “Automotive” view on the 800 (not tried it on the 1000) and I don’t find the need to change the zoom level unless there’s a problem and I need to see more of the map, at which point the Garmin wouldn’t know that either so I’d still have to do it manually.

      This page is just a guide to allow people to get turn-by-turn navigation working quickly and reliably. Hopefully your comment and this response will encourage to experiment a bit once they’ve got the basics working.

      • pjg says:

        @forgot. I suggest you read up on how cycling paths end up getting tagged in the actual GPS map files. The problem is that there is no way to tag something as a cycling path. Therefore, in order to give them priority over roads, many map systems give the cycling path the same priority level as a highway. If you tell the Edge 800/810/1000 to avoid highways, there is a good chance it will not select a cycling path as its primary route. Read this for more info: https://sites.google.com/site/openfietsmap/tips-tricks/basecamp/basecamp-3-3-en

        And, yes, the other comments are preferences but they are based on comments of many many GPS users that I deal with. When people use the GPS primarily as a routing tool (like in your car), the Automotive mode is generally easier to use for many.

        • forgot says:

          Interesting read. Though I’m not wanting the Garmin to do any routing so it’s all a moot point anyway ;) I only include the screen because otherwise people would ask what I have those settings as!

          As I said, I’m not dictating what settings people use, I’m just trying to produce a guide that will allow people to get turn-by-turn navigation working for their own routes because the manual doesn’t explain it. I first did this for the Edge 800 which wasn’t straightforward at all, so I wrote a page showing how I did it so people could at least get it working. Though the Edge 1000 is much easier (mostly thanks to the included maps), I think some people will still struggle and hence I’ve done a page for them.

          People can tweak things after that if they don’t like the exact way I do it, but at least I’ve given them a good base point to work from especially as in my earlier comments and your comments we’ve explained the alternatives.

        • forgot says:

          I forgot to say… thinking about it, it might be better to set Avoidance to all off as you suggest, just in case it does affect the way the Edge 1000 calculates the TBT for a given route. If you remove the limitations and provide a route, the Edge might be more likely to stick to that route.

    • forgot says:

      I’ve now checked and RWGPS “Garmin Write” feature gives you the choice of writing it as a GPX Track, GPX Route or TCX.

  3. Bobbo says:

    A useful addition for this great start of a reference, is to do the same for the segment functionality on the Edge 1000. As you can read in the garmin forums, we are all learning how to use this, and what the quirks are…..

    • forgot says:

      :) Would love to Bobbo, unfortunately I don’t have any real interest in segments. But why not go for it yourself, am sure people will thank you for it.

  4. Stone says:

    Just bought an Edge 1000 and the day after I used it for a 167 km ride in almost unfamiliar territory.
    It is pretty annoying that it can find the cycleways along the highways and motorways.
    I’ve tried to allow it to use highways ect. but no, it will absolutely take me for a longer route than nessary.
    When that said, its a pretty nice device that can do all the things I want (except navigating along major routes).
    Thanks for a great guidance.

    • forgot says:

      Did you plan the route yourself? If not then that’s the best way as it should follow your idea of the best route.

      It’s a cycle computer so it’s not too crazy a concept that it knows about cycleways! But I agree, it’d be better if you could turn them off. If you don’t want them then follow the instructions in the last paragraph of the Maps section above and use them instead of the included maps.

  5. Len DeMoss says:

    This is excellent. I had the Edge 705 which I loved and when the new 1000 came out, I had to have it. I noticed right away that they had taken out the function of when you bring up a course, click on Go, that it calculates and loads the route, then you can hit the settings under the route and click off that stupid idiotic Virtual Partner, and make sure you have off course warning turned on and turn by turn, turned on. I liked that. They make the 1000 too confusing (especially if you had a past model Edge). Being able to turn the turn by turn off/on was a good function but I read in the forum that people were bitching about it and Garmin took it out.

  6. Conor says:

    Thank you really useful blog, saved me hours of research

  7. akismet-0fa532d7002909800ff5d04018d84bd8 says:

    I’d be interested in your thoughts on planning a route on the Garmin itself? We leisure cycle a lot overseas and don’t have access cheaply to the Internet and we often change our routes as we cycle so we were hoping the garmin might do as our cycle route planner without other kit.

    • forgot says:

      It will do that, and I suspect the better maps on the Edge 1000 will mean it’s okay. If you don’t like the routes it chooses then you can just ignore it and allow it to recalculate.

  8. Ben Moore says:

    I appreciate this comment is probably best on the other guide on how to add a map but that comment section is well old now… I am trying to add my Australia map to my Garmin 1000 not 800 and I can’t! I have followed the instructions and it’s not on there. I’ve moved it onto the device from the card and into the custom maps folder still no joy. All guides on net are for the 800 well it doesn’t work!! All help appreciated.
    It’s a custom map downloaded following dcrainmakers instructions. It’s the .img file unzipped etc etc..

    • forgot says:

      I’ve only briefly played with alternative maps, purely out of curiosity. I just took the same .IMG file I was using on my Edge 800 and put it in the same folder as the .IMG file that came with my Garmin 1000, then went into the profiles, enabled it and it worked fine for me.

      • Ben Moore says:

        I think i’ve found it… In my head it should be called australiamap.img (as this is what i renamed it to) however on the garmin is it Openfietsmap Lite??

        • forgot says:

          Ah, I can see the confusion. The name shown in the maps screen is the title of the map (which is embedded in the map file) rather than the name of the map file. Glad you’ve got it sorted.

  9. iRIder says:

    Thank you SO much. It was driving me nuts that I lost the turn by turn prompts after the last upgrade. Why do they bury things in the most illogical places….

    I am wondering if you can explain about tcx vs. gpx files in RWGPS. I used tcx in the beginning and found that it didn’t include all the turns; things would get cut off (short cuts made) and then I read gpx had more detail so ever since I have just used the gpx file. So I don’t understand the reference to cue sheets.

    • forgot says:

      No problem, glad it was helpful.

      On RWGPS you get the cue sheet on the left when you’re designing/viewing a route. This is built up automatically when you design a route, but you can also add to/edit/delete from it. When you export as a TCX, these cues are included in the file and the Garmin should display them as well as it’s own notifications. I’ve never felt the need to use TCX over GPX Track.

  10. Len DeMoss says:

    I have just finished a 3000K cycing tour through Australia and Tasmania with my recently (Aug) purchased Garmin 1000. Some issues I don’t like:
    1. The night before I left, I plugged in the Edge to my laptop to download routes. As it was coming up, it stopped on “loading maps” and completely locked up. Trying to reset by holding in the power button for 10 sec did nothing. Nothing I did would overcome the lockup. Tried plugging into an outlet; nothing. In exasperation, as it was a Friday night in Sydney and I was to leave on a flight to Brisbane the next day, I called Garmin tech support in the US and reached a Fitness manager (not the contract tech support in Idaho). He had one of his specialists call me in Sydney and they walked me through resetting the device which essentially wiped clean the device. They were not sure this would be successful but it was and the device powered up ok.
    2. During the tour, numerous times when I was on the elevation profile (for seeing climbs coming in advance), it would lock up and I’d have to stop, turn off the device, turn it back on, and then stop navigation and reload my course file.
    3. I hate that Virtual Partner and am sure it bleeds battery power. You can shut off Virtual Partner only on an individual bike profile, but it doesn’t turn off when you load a file. I would be 2/3 of the way through a ride and it would flash, “Virtual Partner has completed the ride”. I hate it. It used to be, (when I had my Edge 800 and 705), that after you loaded a route you had loaded onto the Edge, and after it calculated the route, that there was a settings icon. Click on that, and you had three alternatives: 1. turn on turn by turn navigation., 2. turn on/off Virtual Partner and 3., Turn on/off off course warnings. The new update to the software for the Edge, took away off course warning (it was available on the prior level of software) which I didn’t like because if you’re riding a course/route you’ve downloaded, I liked it telling me whenever I made an incorrect turn. Now you have no way of knowing. I used to get 8-10 hrs of batter life on the 800 and 705. Now I’m lucky to get 6 hrs and have to plug in a backup battery to assure I can continue navigating for the day.
    4. Most of my routes I downloaded were in the range of 80-110K rides for a day. Almost without fail, every time I’d start the ride after the calculating route had concluded, up would pop a checkmark which said “The route may be too large to calculate and you should set Via points”. I had never gotten this message in the 800 or 705. I got it almost every time, whether the route was 50K or 110K rides.

    I am still in Australia and leaving to return back to US end of November. I will be calling Garmin Tech Support when I return to return this device and have them replace it as it’s still under warranty. But I am not happy at all with the 1000. The 800 and 705 were much better devices. And the changes they have made to the software just make it almost useless for cycle touring. The only reason I bought the 1000 was because of the larger screen size which I do like. If they had the 1000 screen on the Edge Touring model, I’d of gladly bought that.

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